I used an electric fencer on it. I ran the fence ground to the tin and I mounted some field fence about 2 inches out from the tin all the way around the bottom of the building on fence insulators. That worked very, very well.... I doubt that configuration would work well for you though beings it is people and they aren't going to try and dig there way in at the sides of the building.
For people I have in the past used 110v with an old incandescent light and variable light switch in series. I used it on two different trucks one where they had been stealing gas and the other when someone broke into the truck several times to steal the radio and whatnot. The variable light switch allows to drop the voltage a bit and the incandescent light will blow if you pull too much current keeping you from killing them. It will deliver quite a painful deep current to anyone who touches it though.
For trucks you have to put a metal post into the ground with your neutral wire attached and the metal needs to be fairly close to where they will be touching the rig, then pour out five gallons of water on the ground each night so that the neutral side gets a good connection to them. The hot wire then wires to the truck, warning the trucks that I did this with were old and long before onboard computers, I don't know what effect this could have on a more modern rig.
If the burglars are using your door, you could just electrify the door knob from the inside via electric fencer, shouldn't be hard to insulate just the door handle, you might also add a piece of metal to stand on with the ground of the fencer wired directly to it in front of the door.. If you have windows you could maybe use the fence wire on fence insulators over the windows and hook the hot wire to the fence material and the ground to the body of the building and to a metal post driven into the ground. That should give them a good zap if they touch the door or attempt to access a window.
High voltage question Cattle Fence
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