Keep in mind I've been doing this awhile and some of the equipment you see here isn't absolutely necessary for everyone. It depends on how far, how precise you wish to be. Here's a couple pics of the overall set up I use.
As you can see I have a large work bench with peg board with quick easy access to everything I'm going to need. Top shelf is mainly storage for bullets, powders, case lubes, and various gun care products. The small bench I have the various tools of the trade bolted in place. It seems crowded maybe but because I do each step of the process seperately it works well for me. I simply turn the small bench so whichever tool I need is front and center.
The shelves on the right have finnished bullets packaged and sealed. Along with some other odds and ends. I have a small three drawer organizer there with various tools and supplies.
So let's start the step by step process.
First step is case cleaning. I wash all my brass with hot soapy water before using a tumbler to polish the brass. Note: tumbling isn't actually required, but I personally recommend that you do. Wash and air dry your brass then tumble. I use this:
There are other types of case cleaning systems out there. This particular tumbler works well for me. The media, or product that you add to the tumbler is sold separately.
Tumble as long as necessary to polish brash to your standards. This process will help you identify flaws that may be overlooked otherwise. As a general rule I inspect each case MULTIPLE times all throughout the process. Any cases with damage should be discarded. It's just not worth taking a chance and having a case rupture or separated head while firing.
The next step is decapping/resizing the case. Note that I'm using .223 for this demonstration. Pistol cartridges are slightly different. These procedures I'm doing here are for bottleneck rifle cartridges.
Prior to resizing your cases will most likely require some form of lube before running them up into a resizing die. This is a vital step in the process. Under or over lubing your cases could result in a stuck case in the die to severe deformation of the case.
Now there are probably hundreds of products out there along with different methods of applying the product. I've tried many before settling on hornady one shot case lube. It's practically fool proof. I simply load up a block with cases and give each side a quick spray. Allow a minute or two to dry and your ready to go.
Now onto the resizing. Which I should mention here that I'm doing full case resizing. To keep things simple let me just say that if your reloading for a magazine fed semi auto you will most likely have to full length resize. In bolt actions many experienced reloaders neck size only for a chamber fitted round that's gun specific for maximum accuracy. Meaning neck sized ammo will only chamber in the firearm it's been fired from. Hopefully I'm not confusing anyone here....
Also note I'm using both a single stage hornady press and hornady two set dies here. When you buy your equipment please RTFM ( read the ****ing manual ) as each manufacturer has different procedures for setting your dies and using the equipment. Always keep these instructions handy for quick reference.
This is the resizing die I choose for .223. It decaps ( presses out the expended primer ) and resizes the case to factory specifications for . 223 Remington.
Here it is threaded into the press. Also note for each round you choose to reload a separate shell holder must be purchased along with the proper dies. This is the small piece that holds the case in place on the press and other pieces of equipment like case trimmers and various priming devices. They aren't expensive but keep in mind you need one for each caliber you choose to reload.
Following the instructions that came with your die set, adjust as necessary and deprime/resize your cases. You should note the different trays and containers I have all about my work area. A good habit is to always label your trays. For example: if you resize 50 cases and stop for the day label them accordingly. I often have trays with resized brass along with trays of resized/trimmed/and primed cases. Label your work so you always know just where you are in the process.
This next step may or may not be necessary every time you reload. As your case is resized the possibility that your case has grown in length due to the process is pretty likely. Especially if your full length resizing as we are here. The information you WILL need for every step of this process is found in a reloading manual, like this one.
In it you will find every specification you need, including case length and suggested trim lengths.
In this case our trim length is 1.750. Check your resized cases lengths. I uses a digital set of calipers and check each case. Some may be within spec and need no trimming. Separate those that need trimming.
Above is a picture of the measuring device I prefer along with the case trimmer. In this case a hornady cam lock. There are others on the market, including powered versions. How much you want to spend is up to you. I advise starting out with simple equipment first. Get the hang of each process before upgrading to expensive equipment.
Measure your cases and again RTFM ( read the ****ing manual ) for whichever method of case trimming you choose. Each manufacturer or model may be different in its adjustment so again, review and keep these instructions for each tool you acquire.
After trimming the case mouth needs to be deburred and chamfered prior to bullet seating. I use the hand tool myself since each case only needs a twist or two to get it ready.
So now you have a nice shiny, resized and trimmed case. As far as I know you can go straight to priming, charging powder and bullet seating from here but I'll throw in a few extra steps I prefer to do before loading.
Primer pockets. Some guys say it gains you very little to nothing, others stand by it as necessary for accurate loads. Me? I do it becAuse I'm sort of a perfectionist. I just can not stand repriming a case with a dirty pocket. And honestly truing up and cleaning those primer pockets probably make priming your cases easier if nothing else. On the market are many tools to do each process. Powered models are fast but costly. I still use a small hand crank tool for handling my primer pocket chores.
That's a lyman set I got there. Each bit for each task simply screws into the little hand crank tool. Think t was 30 bucks or so. Comes with everything you need to clean and true both small and large rifle and pistol primer pockets. Came with detailed instructions and pics for the use of each accessory.
Once my cases are resized, trimmed to proper length, and primer pockets are clean and true it's on to repriming. Again reference your reloading manual for cartridge specific primers. I use cci small rifle for .223. I'm not getting complicated here guys remember this is for beginners so forgive me for not mentioning the faster ways for these processes.
On my hornady single stage press it comes with the piece required for using the press for this task. Reference your instructions in using this feature if your chosen equipment comes with it. I prefer this small hand held device myself.
RTFM and follow the instructions. I find this method less tedious and much faster than using the press.
Now it's decision time. What bullet, what powder? Guys please use a quality reloading manual for this. I prefer hornady as it's their line of bullets and products I prefer but there are others. Beware of online charts and word of mouth. Use. A. Manual.
Choices here are user specific. If it's target loads only get fmj. If your hunting then select the appropriate bullet for your game. In this demonstration I'm using hornady 60 grain v max bullets with IMR 4198 powder. For these loads I'm using 18.1 grains of powder per load. As referenced in the manuAl under .223 Remington. Here's what these charts look like.
That's the particular load I'm making here, and I show this only as an example of what these loading charts look like for our newbies.
So it's on to charging your ready to go cases with powder. A good digital scale is recommended, but again this is purely choice for each individual. Here's mine.
Now, you can use a powder trickler or scoop to weigh out each individual charge or you can use a powder drop. Whichever method you choose will require that scale however. When doing match grade loads I weigh each charge. Since these batches are usually small the time it takes isn't of concern. If your doing hundreds of .223 your going to want a powder drop. Don't take this wrong, they are quite accurate, but there will be some slight variation in your charges. Obviously the higher end powder drops will be better.
Honestly I've gotten excellent groups with my powder drop in my .223. Plenty good enough for hunting and self defense loads so please don't think you can't be consistent because you most certainly can.
That clear tube on the right is the hopper. You fill this with your selected powder.
Below, after setting the measure to drop the desired charge I'm charging a case with powder from the powder drop. This is another product from hornady, part of the lock n load system I bought as a kit years ago.
Even after getting the powder drop dialed in I make it a point to periodically drop a charge into the pan and weigh it to be sure things are consistent. Every ten loads or so I'll check my charge. Otherwise I'm simply loading each case directly from the powder drop.
An important note here folks: every step of this process is vital. Attention to detail is a must. Double down on caution and care when charging cases with powder. WARNING: things like double charges, or no charge at all in a bullet can kill you. No powder and its possible the primer alone will push the bullet into the bore and cycle the action. A lodged bullet in your barrell will end up in disaster. A double charge can literally blow up your firearm.
So, be very careful when charging cases folks. Don't allow distractions and develop a methodical system that works for you to ensure your doing it right. Every single time.
Okay guys we are almost done here so hang in there!
For charging cases I have my ready cases in one labeled container. Right next to my powder drop. As I charge each case I use a load block to carefully place each case. This method will prevent a double drop or no drop if you follow it religiously. Case block looks like this.
As you can see, my cases ready for powder are in one tray, those with powder are upright in that red case block. This pic was originally taken to show case lube prior to resizing, but it's the same method I use throughout to separate cases during each step.
Once your cases are charged and lined up in that block take a good strong light and peer down into each case. Your looking for uniformity. Small variations you won't see but if you look you can't miss a case with no powder, or a double charge. Those by the way are the two most common mistakes reloaders make while charging powder. Both are deadly mistakes, and both are totally preventable. If you double check carefully you will see if you have either one in your batch.
ALWAYS TAKE THE TIME TO DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK!
Now it's time to seal the deal and seat your chosen bullet. The particular die set I purchased for .223 came with both the resizing and seating die. They are hornady dies, however other dies work just fine with this press. My 9mm set is actually a Lee.
Here I am seating a bullet. I don't have the time to detail how to set up your dies, but as I've said before when you buy them they come with detailed instructions on their features, set up, adjustments, and their use. RTFM!
Your seating depth, or overall cartridge lengths are found in your respective loading manuals. In this case it's 2.250 and here I am double checking to make sure the round is seated to the proper length.
As you can see this is coming in at 2.249 which is well within spec.
Finnished products. 100 rounds.
I didn't take a pic of the label but it's there. The date loaded, the powder charge and expected velocity, the bullet, and primer brand and powder.
Okay folks I really hope some of you find this helpful and even better if it lures some folks into the hobby.
To the veteran loaders out there please feel free too correct me if I've failed in some way, or just too add additional information.
To everyone else please don't be shy, if you have a question......ASK! I'll answer any question I can, or failing that I'll direct you elsewhere where the info you need can be had. I will not laugh or make fun of any questions, and I'll report any poster that does it at once to our wonderful staff and moderators.
Let's keep it open and friendly, especially for potential new comers that are overwhelmed or lost. Let's help em out and get em reloading!
Reloading 101: pic heavy
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