For those who want more protection, a good option is used commercial safes. Aka what businesses, banks, government uses to protect valuables or cash. Expensive new, good deals can be found second hand, cheaper than top of the line glossy 'gunsafes' with several times the protection. I'll concentrate on sizes which can hold guns, aka 4.5-6ft tall being single door units, basically the size and shape of refrigerators. (For 2-3ft tall safes reduce the weights given accordingly)
Safe Types.
1. Security Cabinets : Low Security. As mentioned 1mm to 6mm steel protection, including almost all gunsafes/homesafes, may incorporate lightweight fire proofing. The lightest are basically school lockers that can be pried open in seconds. The heaviest may resist determined prying but will still be susceptible to powertools in 10-15 minutes. None have a significant cash holding rating for insurance purposes. Weight 100-500lbs depending on width.
2. (a) Plate steel safes. Medium Security. Real safes start here, basically heavier duty models of the security cabinet. 8-10mm up to 1/2" thick metal, sometimes harder plates over door locks, internal dog bars so door will remain in place even if hinges are cut off. Generally pry resistant and powered attacks require more expertise and time.
(b) Plate steel with fire fill. Similar plate steel safes with an additional outer thin layer of metal with a layer of fire retardant material between the layers.
(c)Plate steel with concrete fill. The heaviest duty plate safes will have an inner layer between two steel layers filled with concrete which provides substantial fire and attack resistance. They also become much heavier and more difficult to physically remove by theft. Often the safe door is still a single plate protection, though it may approach 1" in barrier thickness or more and have additional light fire materials layer.
Weights for bare or fire layered plate safes ranges from 500-1500lbs in the 5ft height range. Concrete filled safes may weigh 1500-3000lbs. These safes are where real protection occurs. Cash ratings may be $10-30K
3. TDR safes ( torch and drill resistant) High security. Having different names in different countries these are basically the heavy safes that businesses, banks, jewellers or the government use to store cash or valuables from $50,000 to $100,000. The main difference between a TDR safe and a plate safe is thickness of the walls- anywhere from 2-4 inches thick and a 'slab door' aka the door will also now be comparitively thick as the walls with 3 or 4 sided boltwork. This thickness gives them a fire rating of 1-2 hours. TDR safes will often have glass relockers( secondary deadbolts sealing the door if it or the locks are breached). Weight 1-2 ton in 4.5-6ft high.
4. Bank/Jeweller class TDR. Thicker walls and doors, up to 4-5" thick, heavier steel plates usually sandwhiching high MPA concrete with hardened inclusions to debride cutting edges, cash holding ratings to 250K. Often uses independant dual locking mechanisms and advanced alarms. Weight 2-3 tons in 5-6 ft high.
5. Aloxite TDR and Anti-arc bank safes.
Highest grade bank/jeweller safes. Made in the 1960's-1980's before widespread CCTV and internet based alarms banks needed maximum security. These used heavy steel layers with hotpoured aluminium or copper alloy matrix holding aloxite or carborundum nuggets and thermal resistant layers. Very few manufacturers still have the furnaces to make these worldwide- as mentioned banks switched to making cheaper concrete/steel banksafes in the 90's once internet/alarms improved. Cash holding ratings to $250-500k. They can still often be found used when old banks or supermarkets close down. Weight 2-3 tons also.
Other types of safe
Antique or vintage safes. Including cabinets through to bank level safes, the general rule is safes 70 years old or more were not made with modern power tools in mind so protection levels are lower than modern safes. Check with a safe technician or locksmith for an assessment.
Dedicated Fire, Data or Media safes. Wide variance, usually thick heavy insulated walls. low to medium security as steel thickness is not overly high. Weight between 1000-2500lbs is a deterrant against removal.
Locking types. Three main types are key, combination dial and keypad. That is also the order of most reliability. A quick note to dispel any myths is that destroying the external locks device, as with removing hinges will not allow a commercial safes door to be opened.
Keys. Simple, reliable, will fit most safes except heavy slab door banksafes as normal keys would need to be too long.
Combinations. Good quality 3 or 4 number combination dials by brands like SGT and Greenleaf, should never fail if serviced occasionally, and will work on all safes. Nothing to get lost as with a key, but ensure you don't forget the combo.
Keypads will work on all safes, high grade ones will give many years service but like all things electronic may eventually fail. They are the fastest way to access your safe. Avoid keypads on cheap safes or cabinets, they will be low quality also.
Locksmiths can often changeover different locktypes on commercial safes to suit your purposes. If you lose a combination or key, or a keypad fails locksmiths can also manipulate or drill open the safe. For lighter cabinets it is usually a quick minute with a drill. The time is obviously increased as the safes strength increases. Try not to lose combinations for high level TDR safes as this may require many hours drilling at your expense. Drilled safes are quite functional afterwards, the locksmith will penetrate classified manufacturer specified points to insert probes to manipulate the safes locks, then fill the hole with metal or concrete after. Ensure you choose locksmiths experienced to the level of safe you have.
Buying a used safe. Major locksmiths and city safe shops will often have used stock as well as new. Generally buying a second hand safe is a safe buy excusing the pun and much cheaper than a new safe. They should have serviced the safe, checking the locks, hinges and main structures, and may have even resprayed it. They may also provide a free forklift service to a carrier of your choice or your own vehicle. Or install the safe at your premises for a fee. Most used safes will have alarms de activiated but can be re-installed by the shop. Even cheaper is buying used safes locally or from classified adds. Often banks, businesses, government offices closing down may be willing to part with a safe very cheaply or free if the buyer can arrange removal costs. Ensure you check with a safe removalist if in doubt, some safes cannot be removed without structurally altering buildings and hiring cranes.Things to look out for on used safes are that they have not been stored in the rain. Surface rust and paint missing is okay, bulging skin indicates barrier layers are rusting/degrading. Ensure the safe door swings easily with a single finger pressure, tight doors due to sagging hinges are expensive to repair. Ensure the safe can actually be unlocked, the key in the lock or picture actually belongs to the safe, or the combination/keypad is fully functional. Safes with lost keys or failed locks will incur the expense of drilling it open. Its worth paying the callout fee for a locksmith to inspect the safe and locks before you proceed.
Placing the safe. Varies on personal situation and safe weight but safes up to 2500lbs are not as difficult as you'd think to place on a study ground floor, den , garage or workshed. Forklifted near to the door they can rolled into place on broomsticks or metal pipe sections. One side of the safe is tilted slightly by pry bars/forklift tine, pipes are rolled underneath and as the safe rolls forward the last pipe is replaced in front again. On upper floors they can often by lifted into balconies with the handrails removed and rolled into place from there. Heavier TDR safes are a more specialised move of course. Ensure you check your placement areas structural integrity for any safe and can get loading assets close enough to access points. Trucks , cranes and forklifts carrring 2-3 ton safes can become bogged down in yards.
Servicing the safe. Safes will last longer than their owners if serviced anually for a callout fee by a qualified locksmith or safe technician. The idea is to keep the locks functioning so as not to require an expensive drilling opening. Reputed locksmiths may even offer to store combinations on file or spare keys for you.
Provisos for all safe types.
1. All safes can be beaten with enough time, expertise and tools. While TDR safes are considered safe from 99.9% attackers, view any safe as just part of your overall security system
2. If you put it in place, there is usually a way to remove it.Theives with enough lifting equipment, time and planning sometimes remove safes to attack it at another place of their leisure.
3. No substance on earth can withstand the right amount of explosive or thermic lancing. While explosive attacks are unlikely the industrial thermic lance is available to the public, cutting even hotter than plasma it will melt concrete and steel. These methods were rarely considered useful due to operator danger of explosives/lancing indoors, and they usually destroy the safes contents.
4. The toughest safes in the world can be opened easily if you are forced to at gunpoint. Time delay locks which take an hour to release the door after dialling the combination can prevent criminals immediately accessing contents but then you will be dealing with their dissappointment in learning this! The best idea is keep your safe is a secret. Don't show it off, don't tell your friends or workmates.Treat it like your personal finances, a need to know basis. Word may spread and the wrong ears will overhear it at the local diner or work and you may get an unpleasant visit one night.
5. While destroying safe locks or cutting hinges cannot open a commercial safe door, it may prevent you from opening the safe until it is repaired, or write the safe off. Repairs such as drilling can be expensive, ensure your home/theft insurance covers repair/replacement.
Supporting measures. Particularly useful to delay attackers for lighter weight units or cabinets.
Alarms- also for improving insurance ratings.
Secondary internal measures. Internal locking bars, gun racks, locked internal compartments or chains, apart from providing a second line of defence, can force attackers to recut larger holes to get tools inside to deal with them.
Bolt it down. Safes are often removed from premises to be attacked later. Also attacks on lighter safes or cabinets are made easier if the attacker can topple the safe and pry the door whilst its lying down.
Placement. Optionally place safe in the corner of the room, limiting access to two of the safes surfaces. Or utilise additional furniture to protect a side of the safe or delay working access to it. Eg heavy sofa, beer fridge or tool cabinet bolted next to it.
Limit attack methods. Remove power tools/hand tools from the area and keep them locked up as well. Opportunistic , low grade theives will often use what is at hand.
Concealment. Consider hiding or decoying the safe. Under stairs, building a wooden cabinet around the safe or simply covering in a blanket can make it less conspicuous to thieves.
Again, commercial safes may seem overkill for many or not suit their financial or accomodation situation. For those who want the most protection or something standing at the end of a disaster hopefully the above was helpful.
Some safe videos for information
Heavy gunsafe being pried in under 2 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nBhOjWHbD6M
Heavy gunsafe with disc cutter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-9vWa-C44I
Real commercial safe surviving test attack for 30 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtbGUbeM860
Security safes
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